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Vaquera and other postmodernist visionaries

Up: Vaquera's "Handmaid's Tale" Collection 2017 

 

I'm freaking out with Vaquera's website. I recommend you to visit it:  https://vaquera.nyc/

 

It is a perfect example of brutalist website, so fashionable now. Regarding user experience I'm not sure what to think; either is the most usable website in the world or the user is confused because expects to find a more conventional website.

 

(Here are more horrible and 90's style websites: http://brutalistwebsites.com/)

The fact is that their "brutalist website" is very coherent with the aspirations of the brand ... they define themselves as a collective that was found in 2013 as a reaction to the lack of diversity in the contemporary fashion scene.They are part of this whole movement of ugly aesthetics, led by Vetements. If there is anything good in this, it is that this movement really integrates the most diverse canons, those outside the standards. I am afraid, however, this aesthetic will disappear .. for a while, of course. In my opinion, the history of aesthetics is a story of ups and downs, where harmonious beauty alternates with that one more chaotic or fatalistic.

 

Art and design are a reflection of society, and right now, if design has something common in many of its fields (fashion, graphic, web ..) is this point of ugliness that attract attention ..

 

Nike's Huarache, IKOB Contamporary Museum o Art Website

 

 

¿How do we feel? Maybe the politicians do not represent us, we feel rebellious, we question all the "truths" ..

 

It is supposed that we are part of postmodernism, which is characterized by betting on diversity and supporting the oppressed by modern ideologies, which preceded postmodernism. If modernist art (avant-gardes)  was committed to politics and had a social role, nowadays art doesn't speak about commitments, nor about politics, it has no purpose at all. It is the time of disenchantment. Utopias and the idea of collective progress are renounced. Now it's individual progress. (It reminds me the film "Divergent", about a dystopia in which they present the individualism as the triumph and the freedom.It is on Netflix now; or "The handmaid's Tale", of which I'm going to speak now in a while This is from HBO).

 

Vetements Spring 2018, the prized model  Melanie Gaydos for Vogue Italia, in"Arterius" Collection; styling: Nina Athanasiou / photography: Sylwia Makris 

 

On the other hand, we are in a world which is hyperstimulated by all sorts of pictures, and the only way to impact is by uglyness. We also bet on exaggerated inspiration (I would say almost imitation) of other previous times, as now happens constantly with the 70's, 80's and 90's. (This is very postmodern, supposedly) We only have the nostalgia..nah, it's a joke; I would never say that any past time was better. We are in a time I would never want to lose for anything in the world.

 

I think it's worth watching. Watching us, changing throught the ages.

One of the most difficult things is to be a visionary of these new fashions that are emerging .. in the case of Vaquera, I'll tell you that I met them thanks to something else that nowadays can  join/marginalize so much between us: Series.

 

 

This year has come a serie that also speaks about dystopias and individualism, and already managed to dazzle many people: "Handmaid's Tale", has many of the issues that interest people, including feminism. Restrained light, georgeous aesthetic, full of chiaroscuro in scenes which look like paintings, and what is most striking is the maids costumes, which are red, as a symbol of fertility. (The cut and the hat remind me of Vermeer's characters).

Vaquera has versioned this costumes in a collection that advocates feminism, and goes "about oppression and the group mentality, which makes someone an individual and how we use clothing to build our identity" explains Taubensee (part of the collective ) In statements to The New York Times.

 

"The handmaid's Tale"(2017) frame, based on the Margaret Atwood novel "The handmaid's Tale"(1985)

Here are some pictures about the collection. I find it a very interesting example of how to perceive what society perceives and take advantage of the opportunities to build a brand and aspirations which people identify with.

 

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